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Celsius
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1 to 4
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2 to 5
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3 to 5
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The two tables at left show the
wires that have to be connected for each type. This is using
the numbers we mentally attached to the pads earlier. After
you have soldered wires to these pads, you need to mark or note
which wire is which because we will not be able to see the pads
once we close up the sensor. |
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I then drilled a hole about 1/8"
through the back of the sensor above the wirepad section and
then carefully fed the wires 1, 2, 3, and 4 through this hole.
Wire 5 is much farther to the right so I just fed it through
the slots that were already in the back. Then put the whole
thing back together making sure that everything lines up correctly. |
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The switch you use is up to you,
but for this type of board, you must use a 3PDT switch. (3 pole
Double throw) These things ain't cheap either. You can use slide
switches if you prefer as they are a lot cheaper but I had to
use toggle switches because they are the only ones that would
fit in the space I needed to put them. I got them at Digikey.
(Part#CKN1037-ND) There were about $9.10 apiece. |
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The switch works like this: When
the switch is in the down position connections are made between
the top and middle rows, and when the switch is in the up position,
connections are made between the middle and bottom rows. Your
numbered wires need to be connected like the picture at left.
This will give you Celsius when switched up and Fahrenheit when
switched down. |
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As you can see, wire 2 and wire 5 need to be connected 2
times. You must attach a 2nd wire to the #2 wire so there
are 2 connections for it. This way you can attach it to both
poles on the switch. The #5 wire has the 2 poles close enough
that you can just solder the wire to one pole and then a jumper
wire to the 2nd pole. I also put heat shrink tubing on the
wires before they were soldered. Here are some pictures of
the finished product. (Click for bigger pics)
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Back of Sensors
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Front Celsius
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Front Fahrenheit
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I painted the face plate the same way the rest of the case
was painted. The lettering is known as dry transfer or wax
transfer lettering. You can get it an most hobby or art stores,
although Black is more readily available then other colors.
Many places on-line have it if you look around. Tower-hobbies
is one example. This link is their model train section where
the dry transfer lettering can be found.
The lettering was applied one letter at a time by lining
up the letter and then rubbing it on with a burnisher or a
pen cap. I applied it before applying the clear coat. The
clear coat will then protect the lettering.
If anyone has any questions about this mod, please mail
me.
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